Rock Climbing in South Korea

Korea is not known for its rocks. All things considered it is not a rock climbing destination. But say you're bound to Korea for some time and you wonder if you should bring your nuts and cams? The answer is yes!

I have high standards when it comes to quality rock, and I can confidently say that Korea has good quality granite and aesthetic traditional lines, some of which within the city boundaries of Seoul!

There are also a number of sport climbing and bouldering areas and plastic climbing walls. I will focus only on granite cliffs and traditional lines that I think are worth of your nuts and gears! More beta below.

There are two big must-visits in Seoul: Insubong (인수봉) and Seoninbong (선닌봉) . These areas present wonderful hiking, along with eastetic granite climbing. Both cliffs are of the size of Tahquitz Rock (Southern California) with up to  6 pitch routes. The rock is coarse but clean granite, with cracks and faces. But mostly faces and slabs. An interesting history tidbit about Insubong are the few cracks pioneered by Chouinard himself and aptly named Chouinard A and B. 

Insubong

Seoninbong

Villa 5.12a

The classic face climb at Insubobng is called Villa (빌라) 5.12a (It sounds like Pilla since in Korean there is no "v"). 

But the real price at Insu is hidden behind a ridge in a small cliff featuring two cracks that would be five stars at Thaquitz. Its called elephant crack and it was off-bounds for some time. Sweat it not! A kind talk with the climbing ranger could get you a permission and the needed directions to the hidden cliff. Foreigners get such a preferential treatment in Korea, its a shame.

There are many bolts placed near cracks. I led some bolted climbs on gear only. Green point? There are a few hard lines that I did not try or did not get clean. One of them was this spectacular overhanging crack at Insu. It captured my imagination on first sight. Contradicting stories about whether it has seen a redpoint or not added to the lure. I heard Tony Yaniro was the first to work on it. If you walk to the higher, left side at Insu you wont miss it. There is an easy approach pitch. The business starts with a 5.11 finger crack, followed by a rest and a crux protected by two bolts. Its a rather hard boulder problem with bad feet and underclings. It takes micro cams as well. The crack then eases up and its over. I could not do the crux moves but they are doable. 

There are some great looking lines at Soning Bong. I did a short finger crack there that was in the mid 12 range, and there was another highert up that looked stellar.

Another awesome-looking granite area at Sorak-San mountain, near the West coast is Ulsan Baui. I just hiked around there since I did not have partners. Curiously, I think there is potential for new lines even at crowded areas like Insubong.

Korean Climbers are generally very friendly. Many times I would just show up by myself and hook up with people at the crags. Even the climbing rangers at Insubong gave me a belay, and treat me with a meal in the ranger station!

more pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/badakov/ClimbingKorea