Pyromania

photo: Andre

In a place where most climbs are 5 stars on a 5-star scale, there is one that stands out. I will drop it: Pyromania is the best climb at the Needles, at its grade. Grade correction is important since most climbers don't consider 5.13 a recreational challenge. And because, the overall best climb at the Needles is the multi-pitch Romantic Warrior at grade 5.12.



Pyromania seemed to be a perfect fit for me. Just the right combination of dynamic power and endurance. Yet it required a 10 year courtship to succeed. I first got on it in 97. I was in shape back then, and I fell on the endurance crux near the top. Bummer. Next try was in 2004 or 05 after I was out of school. I patched it up quickly but lacked the endurance. I opted for the suspect "pink-point",  pre-placed gear ascent. Luckily I fell. The style issue would have haunted me forever.

Few years went by. Travels, injuries, and work kept me away from the glowing orange-green patch or rock. But in 2007 I was back on it, feeling strong and motivated. Excitement and anticipation of the conclusion of this long love affair was in the air. There was a bit of fear too. Low on the climb there are few moves where protection is suspect, and climbing insecure. I had to stock up on few more of my favorite cams: the Blue TCU (or Green alien if you prefer). With few exceptions that's all Pyromania takes.
This ascent wouldn't have been possible without the support, and the patient, attentive belay from my dear friends Jacqueline, Andre, and Alex. Thank you!

Detailed photo gallery at Alexander Cooper's website: http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing/2007/20070811-needles/index.html