Mt Johnson, South Lake Area

Mt Johnson (3923m/ 12871ft) is my favorite peak of the South Lake cirque. And I think, South Lake is my favorite play area in the Sierra Nevada for ski mountaineering. This is like picking out the best climbing area in Indian Creek...! Just about any drainage off hwy 395 offers exceptional skiing, but nowhere are the choices so many, so accessible, and the views so rich. There are Mt Agassiz, The Palisades, Mt Goode, Hurd Pk, Mt Johnson, Mt Gilbert, Mt Thompson. All within a day or a half day roundtrip from the car.
Even better than skiing just Mt Johnson is linking it up with Mt Gilbert for whats possibly the best short linkup in the area.
We did that with Andre in the spring of 2010.



Approach and Timing

From Bishop take West Line towards Lake Sabrina. Up high the road splits, take the left towards South Lake.
Snow conditions in the Sierra vary quite a bit and the road is only partially maintained during winter. So in a big snow years one must start skinning lower on the road. In the spring though its possible to get very close to the lake.

Crossing Lake Sabrina is usually a straightforward traverse on the left bank. In late Spring cracks and holes must be avoided.

Mt Johnson (3923m/ 12871ft) via North Couloir

Past South lake we take the left drainage towards Hurd Peak (3730m/12237ft) and Treasure Lakes. Then just follow it staying on the right side of Hurd Pk. There is a short tree section that opens up to a beautiful valley. What is visible ahead is not Johnson peak but the peak between Gilbert and Johnson. The objective becomes visible past Treasure lakes. After about three distinct steps/lakes we turn right towards the North face of Mn Johnson. A short rest, and we climb up the steep north couloir. (there are other ways to the top)

At the top of the north couloir, we stash skis to proceed with a rocky ridge traverse to the summit. The ridge strikes a good balance of exposure and technical scrambling, without being overly committing. Views from the summit are gorgeous, contender for the best panorama for this corner of the Sierras.

Descending Mt Johnson via West (or northwest) Couloir

From the col we descend on the west face close to the ridge line, in search for a passage to the west couloir. There is a giant cornice and some rocks. We carefully traverse around to the chute. The upper section is very steep around 55 deg. Andre doesn't take chances and puts the crampons on. I forgot my crampons in the car, and I feel safer on skis. After nervous side stepping and a couple of jump turns the slope eases a bit and we go faster. The chute then widens and merges to the drainage between Mt Johnson and Mt Gilbert.

The Other Side of the Mountain

We are on the "other" side of the Sierra Crest. There is something about this crossing and the surrender to the deep wilderness. You are alone out there. Just far enough from civilization that every mistake will have a consequence. With our tiny race packs and minimum supplies (GU bars and water) we are aware we cant last very long. Counterintuitively it is not a stressful realization bit that of piece and calm.


Mt Gilbert (3995m / 13103ft)

We ascend the South-east face of Mt Gilbert. Its perfectly pitched for a skin track at about 35 deg. 1500ft is a long slog and we are feeling the fatigue. The views on top are fantastic but weather is getting colder and we need to hurry down. Andre is pissed at me because I forced him into a long day. We did Mt Williamson the day before in 12h roundtrip, and today was supposed to be our easy rest day...Well, between the two of us an easy day is what it is. I soloed Mt Gilbert a few years back and I thought it was one of the coolest places in the Sierra.

We descend via Mt Gilbert's East couloir and down past the awesome series of bowls to South lake and back to the car before dark. Snow slopes combined with skis harness the best of gravity.

Mt Johnson — Mt Gilbert via west couloir is one of my favorite linkups in the Sierras. A bigger dream  of mine is the full traverse of the South Lake range. Starting from Mt Goode or even Mt Agassiz and finishing on Mt Thompson. Any takers?

More pictures!