Slice and Dice

Slice & Dice, photo Andre 

Without exaggeration, the sandstone Moab area is the crack-climbing heaven on Earth. 
My experience is limited to five trips only–I have scratched the surface. I figured I will share some pictures and beta.

The short list of my favorite and most memorable climbs:







1. Wiggins I (11-)
I roamed at the Cliffs of Insanity with Alex Mach while looking for another cliff... Then I saw it, Wiggins I. Instantly it captured my imagination. Two years later I was back with Andre and a rack of #4 (camalots) which, except for a short hand size section at the start, is all she takes. The crack climbs as good as it looks. And it is, in my opinion, the best looking crack at the creek.

Andre on Wiggins I

Onsight spoiler alert: Not an offwidth but wide still. I used a lot of arm-barring, forearm jamming, and hill-toe action. No stacking.

2. Quarter of a Man (11+)
Long, endurancy, memorable. I really dig this type of climbing. Journey packed in a pitch.


3. Desert Vuarnet
Like #2 but the climbing is more diverse.

4. Slice and Dice (12)
While waiting for our turn on "Way Rambo" which was pretty good if not a bit overhyped,  I wondered around and spotted "Slice & Dice". A wow even for Indian Creek standards. A perfect splitter at the strenuous "ringlock" (green camelot) size. In other words: irresistible. I borrowed a couple of green .75 camalots (8-9 are needed) and went for it. I was lucky Andre was there and took the awesome shot. It turned out to be my best onsight at the Creek.

5. Optimator
The staple 5.13 crack IMO. A notch up in difficulty form Phoenix or Ruby's. It has a distinct purple-camalot crux, but it is sustained and interesting for the entire 30 meters.

Coyne crack

6. Coyne Crack
This outstanding crack is being loved to death due to its proximity. Still, a must do.

Moses tower

7. Primrose Dihedrals, Moses
Its hard to pick the best tower around Moab. But I think Moses has an edge over the Sixshooter and Castleton. Its remoteness and the exposed and more sustained climbing add to the sense of adventure.

Alex Mach at the approach to Moses

8. Lightning Bolt Crack, North Sixshooter.
We ventured out there with Alexander Cooper taking the long hike. It was my first desert tower and I was blown away. The view did not match anything I had experienced before:  an endless desert and snowy peaks in the far distance. It was as if we were suspended from the skies. A mandatory Creek climb!

Extended list of great climbs:
The Layaway Plan, Way Rambo, Slice and Dice (Way Rambo), Man in Black, Puzzle Factory, Wiggins I and Wiggins II*, Broken Brain* (Cliffs of insanity) , Demolition, Nagasaki (Fin Wall), Power Line, Power Play (Power Wall), Pit Bull Terror, Jonny Cat, King Cat* (and many other at Cat Wall), Black Corner, Battle of the Bulge, Ruby's Caffe (Battle of the Bulge), Pente, Excuse Station* (Reservoir Wall), Supercrack,  Coyne Crack, 3am Crack (Supercrack), Desert Vuarnet, Scarface, Sicilian, Not That Finny, Comic Relief (Scarface), Optimator, Anunnaki, Soul Fire (Optimator Wall), Sacred Cow*(Sacred Cow Wall).

(*) Climbs I have not done, but I wish I have.