Separate Reality

Poser on the roof

Old photo of a classic Yosemite roof crack. Possibly the most famous roof crack in the world. Thanks to my friend Roger, I dug up this photo. More info and some beta below.

It is the spring of 1999. Konstantin took the photo from rather uncomfortable hanging stance at the start of the roof with his Russian camera Zenith. We took turns climbing and taking pictures. Konstantin is also to be credited for my hair color.

Konstantin and Anton

Beta:

The hardest part about this climb is finding it. Ron Kauk discovered the climb looking from across the valley! It is also visible from road 140 at the large parking for the waterfall, with the dumpsters. The approach is from the top. One need to look for the crack on the steep slab.  Rappel from a tree down, along the corner, to a large sloppy ledge.
Short wide section at the start is protected by a #4 Camalot (not mandatory) or something smaller a bit lower.  I would not put anything until the roof to reduce rope drag. For the roof, I use 2 #3s (blue camalot), and 2 # 2s (yellow camalot) in that order. Red, green, and purple camalots come in handy if one is working the crack but unnecessary for free climbing protection, IMO. Most of the crack is perfect hands. The crux is a boulder move near the lip. I won't spoil the onsight, but I would mention that climbing Bachar-cracker or Deliverance (Valley boulder problems) will be very helpful!

There was a rather large crack on the hold I am holding. Konstantin noted that one day it will break off. Years later I went back there with Roger and noticed that someone used large amounts of glue to fill up the gap.

Thanks to Ron Kauk, who discovered Separate Reality and did the first ascent! Ray Jardin who invented the friends and made it possible to lead without pre-placed nuts (!). And the visionary Wolfgang Gulich who's solo picture sent a shock wave throughout the climbing world.

Tales of Reality

Right below Separate Reality is another Kauk's climb and a Valley classic splitter: Tales of Power. A slightly overhung thin-hands/ringlock crack that would make the thinn-hand section of Phoenix feel like a cruise! Mostly red and green camalots. Its easly accessed from bolted anchors at the edge of the ledge.